Tear Down

The rottisserie started out as this engine stand from our local automotive, farmer's supply store called Princess Auto. They were on sale for $39.95 Cdn (about 6 bucks US - just kidding). I initially intended to buy two (one for either end) but when I checked out the price of the additional steel I would need to complete the stand, I just bought a third one and used it for its steel.

On one of the body work pages I show how I cut the stands and welded them up, but I have been asked for some more pictures and so here they are. I think it is plenty strong (I have stood in the tub with it on the stand), however because of todays litigatious society, please insert your favourite 14 page usual legal disclaimer against liability if you copy what I did, here.

At the rear of the tub I welded two pieces of angle iron together to form a "V" and added two flat brackets on the ends. These were drilled to fit into the tail gate hinge holes. When bolted to the engine stand it is very sturdy.

Here is what it looks like from the other side. Where you actually attach these brackets to the tub will determine if it is in balance or not. By eye we decided that the point of rotation should align just below the top of the dash. This is a bit wrong, however it is still easily rotated with one hand. We also used a level when building and attaching the attachment brackets to make sure the tub was level (duh!)

At the front of the tub I used a straight piece of angle iron across the stand. Some rottisseries I have seen bolt this into the front fender angle tab bracket thingies (Can you tell I don't know their real name?), but as I was going to take out the hat channels (which braces the bottom of the angle brackets) and some of their welds were broken I didn't feel they were strong enough.

Instead I drilled two holes at each end through the firewall. I figured 4 more holes wouldn't make much difference more or less and I will likely fill them once the tub is on the frame.

Above are two pictures of one of the end stands. When I cut and rewelded it I left the square socket at the bottom which allows the cross bar to slide on both ends allowing me to easily adjust the distance between the stands. Additionally I only use one of the locking pins on one of the stands as that is all it needs to stop the tub from rotating. The grey paint shows where I lengthened the end stand with steel from the third engine stand.

This is the sheet metal brake I bought from Princess Auto. It was on sale for $180.00 CDN (If you wait long enough everything comes on sale at Princess Auto).

Here is another photo of it in my shop. As noted on the Body Work pages it is very handy for working the sheet metal.

Here is a photo of the newest addition to my shop. A floor model sandblast cabinet. Where did I get it? If you've been following this site you already know. Princess Auto and of course on sale ($188.00 CDN). It is made in China so the instructions are a bit poor (lousy pictures and a step or two was missing). It is a syphon model so it recirculates the sand from the bottom of the funnel. The hoses, one for air and the other as a sand pick-up, need to be replaced as they are pretty poor quality. All in all not a bad deal.